How to Plan a Day in Wine Country
Feat. where I went on a recent trip to Napa
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Lately, I’ve been in my happy place.
Because I’ve been drinking a lot of wine.
And studying wine.
And going to wine country.
This week, I took the exam for the WSET Level 1 Award in Wines. WSET is one of several organizations those working in the wine industry turn to for education and certifications. About half a dozen people I’ve talked to recommend it as the best route if you want to study wine— for any readers who might be interested.
The course I took to prepare for the exam happened to overlap with a vacation to the Bay area with my partner, so a day in Napa was a must.
I’ve written before about wine tasting being a sort of mindfulness practice for me. You can check that out below.
I’ve also written about the perceived “stuffiness” of wine culture preventing people from learning about and enjoying great wine. It doesn’t have to be that way.
If you’ve wanted to spend some time in wine country but don’t know where to start, this newsletter is for you. I’m sharing an FAQ-style guide to planning a day in wine country based on my experiences from more than half a dozen trips.
Keep in mind that this is based on my experiences tasting wine in the U.S. My advice may not apply to those headed to wine regions in Europe or elsewhere.
Andiamo!
Where should I go?
California is an obvious choice—the state produces world-famous wines and accounts for more than 80% of winemaking in the U.S. There are vineyards in nearly every part of the state. Napa Valley, of course, is the most famous. It also makes it pretty expensive compared to other areas. My most recent excursion to Napa was amazing, but the higher prices of tastings and bottles were definitely a barrier to stocking up my wine fridge. That doesn’t mean you should skip Napa—it means you may need to plan carefully to make sure your trip doesn’t drain your bank account.
California is not your only option; there are wine-producing regions all over the U.S.
This article added a few to my bucket list. Colorado’s western slope is also on my radar, and so is Long Island.
I recommend taking a day trip to a wine region close to a major city. That’s how I’ve done most of my tastings.
These are the places I’ve visited in the U.S. :
Napa Valley, CA
At least an hour north of San Francisco, depending on traffic and locations of the wineries you visit
Temecula Valley, CA
About an hour north of San Diego
Woodinville, WA
Less than an hour northeast of Seattle
Tri-Cities, WA
Rural area near the Oregon border
Walla Walla, WA
Rural area near the Oregon border
Willamette Valley, OR
45-90 min south of Portland, depending on where in the valley you are tasting
Keep in mind the styles of wine the region is known for. If you don’t like pinot noir, skip the Willamette Valley. Walla Walla may not be for you if you don’t like bold, dry reds.
Which wineries should I visit?
A wine region may have anywhere from dozens to hundreds of wineries.
If you only have a day, you’ll likely get to three or four of them. I believe three is the magic number. I’ve done four (maybe even five?) wineries in a day and survived, but more than three tends to be tough for a few reasons:
You’re probably drunk by the end of the third tasting.
Even if you’re not drunk, your palate is exhausted. Everything has started to taste the same.
You really, really need a nap.
I use tourism websites, social media, blogs, and personal recommendations to narrow down where I want to go. Not everyone has a wine-obsessed relative or friend like I do, so this part is about trolling the internet.
You can choose wineries based on proximity to each other, the types of wine they produce, price, or a million other reasons.
I chose the four wineries I visited in Napa this month based on personal recommendations, price, food offerings, and use of sustainable practices like organic and biodynamic farming.
Here’s where I ended up and why:
Ghost Block Estate Wines. My uncle told me not to miss this winery, so it was first on the list.
Robert Sinskey Vineyards. I saw Robert Sinskey on a list of sustainable wineries in Napa (from a Google search) and was interested in their farming practices and dedication to good food. Snacks were served with the basic tasting, but guests could also book more in-depth food and wine experiences.
St. Supéry. This winery was also praised in corners of the internet for sustainable practices. It was also on my uncle’s list of recommendations. Also, the grounds looked gorgeous on their social media accounts, and I am not above being influenced by aesthetics.
Tank Garage Winery. I think I ended up on a Reddit thread about natural wines in Napa? I loved that this self-declared “punk rock winery of Napa” is in a converted garage. It gave me more of an impression of a brewery than a winery (another place I’ve experienced this vibe: Sleight of Hand Cellars in Walla Walla). They were open much later than other wineries, making it worth the 25-minute drive from the southern end of the valley, where our other tastings were.
I’m not going to go in-depth on my experience at each of these wineries, but I’m happy to answer any questions. Leave a comment and let me know what’s on your mind!
How do I get to these wineries?
Since you’re probably staying in a nearby, bigger city, you may have 60 miles or more to get to your wineries. There’s also that thing where wine has alcohol in it, and you should not be gulping down the nectar all day and then getting behind the wheel. Let’s be safe, friends.
I’ve always traveled to wine country with other people. We typically rent a car, and one person is the designated driver. That person has to be responsible and ask for a bucket to spit out or dump their wine at each stop. Keep in mind: if you spit the wine out, your body will still absorb some of the alcohol. Drink lots of water, make sure you eat enough, and pay attention to how you’re feeling (good advice for everyone, not just the DD).
You can book a tour if you don’t want to fuss with anyone in your group driving. There are plenty of options to choose from, especially if you’re going to a popular wine region like Napa. Some of these tours may not give you as much freedom to choose which wineries to visit and make your own schedule, but it does take the driving part off your mind so you can focus on enjoying the wine.
Hiring a private driver is also an option.
Napa Valley also has a wine train. This option is definitely about creating a unique experience—so most of their packages are at least a few hundred bucks per person. I have not been aboard because that’s a long way out of my budget.
Search around for options, and do what’s right for your schedule and budget.
Should I make reservations?
Yes. Most places are likely to require/encourage reservations as they try to recover from the pandemic. Making reservations also helps you plan out your day and manage your time. Give yourself 90 minutes to two hours for each tasting, even if the winery says the tasting will last an hour. Building in that extra time ensures you’ll never feel rushed. Many wineries make it easy to book reservations on their websites or list a phone number to call.
Do I have to dress up?
Nah. Be comfortable and dress for the weather. No need to try to copy the “wine country bachelorette party” vibe you see on social media. There’s nothing wrong with feeling looking good and feeling good, though. I am happiest when overdressed and usually wear dresses and skirts with comfortable shoes to wine country.
Do tastings include lunch?
Not usually. Some may provide crackers or other small snacks, but a basic tasting is just the wine at most wineries.
Some wineries do food and wine pairing experiences—they will of course cost extra.
Some wineries have restaurants, ranging from casual eats to fine dining. Check the winery’s website and restaurant reviews online.
The cheapest option will usually be to build time into your day to stop somewhere for a casual lunch. You could even pack a picnic and stop at a local park for a budget-friendly meal with views.
No matter how you dine in wine country, there are two important things you need before you start tasting:
One large water bottle for each person in your party
A salty snack that’s not overpoweringly seasoned. I recommend non-flavored potato chips, pretzels, or saltine crackers.
These items will prevent or postpone sloppy wine-drunkenness and refresh your palate between tastings.
How do I take my wine home?
If you’re going to wine country only to taste some good wine and enjoy the scenery, that’s awesome. Do it.
Just know that the lovely people serving your wine really want you to buy bottles and maybe a wine club membership, and they may or may not be subtle about it.
Buying bottles can get expensive real quick, so if that’s not what you want, politely decline.
If you do want to buy bottles, there are a few ways to get them home safely:
Pick up some wineskins before your trip. These are basically bubble-wrapped safety blankets for wine that will keep bottles from breaking inside a suitcase. Place your wine bottles as close to the center of the suitcase as possible, with other items packed in tight around the bottles to keep them from moving. If you don’t have a wineskin, wrap each bottle in a chunky article of clothing and pack in the same way.
Ask the folks in the tasting room if they ship. This may be a “yes” or “no,” depending on the state you want to ship to and the number of bottles you buy. Also, keep in mind the time of year. Some wineries may ship but hold off for weeks or even months to send the wine to avoid hot weather. The heat exposure in transit could ruin the wine.
If you’re really going hard, you might be able to bring home an entire case of wine (12 bottles). Ask your airline if they will allow you to check a case of wine with your luggage. If yes, you may be able to buy the proper box at the local post office or a winery taproom.
Also, most places I’ve gone will waive your tasting fee if you buy a bottle. The only exception is my trip to Napa this month, which is a bummer because the tastings I did this month were the most expensive I’ve ever done.
If you made it here, thank you for reading! It would mean the world to me if you sent Makans of a Chef to a friend who would love it.
Conclusion
Exploring wine country gives you a new appreciation for one of the world’s most celebrated traditions. It can help you discover new likes (or dislikes). It can be a way to support small businesses and sustainable farming. It can be a way to treat yourself to luxury or have a blast on a budget. No matter how you choose your adventure, it doesn’t have to be intimidating. Cheers!
Dear Dread Pirate, planning a grip to Callie this fall. Napa and more. Maybe Sonoma. No grandkids, plenty of wine. Thanks for the tips!
I DREAM of a visit to Napa! Not much wine local to me here in North London, UK... xx